Hiking the Belknap Range in NH’s Lakes Region

“It’s a range, not a ridge,” I reminded my friend Hilary as we sat on a rock, resting for a few minutes on our marathon 12.2-mile traverse of the Belknap Range in Gilford/Gilmanton, NH.

Hilary had just used the word “ridge” to reference our hike on this humid day in early June —a definite misnomer, even though sections did follow ridges. When we decided to undertake this adventure, I too had been thinking of the Belknap Range as a “ridge hike,” a long but fairly easy traverse over eight low summits. We could leave the Seacoast at 6 a.m., and be back in Portsmouth for a 6 p.m. dinner at Moxy and the outdoor concert at the Music Hall. Easy-peasy, especially since the Lakes Region is just over an hour away.

I soon learned, however, that viewing the Belknap Range trek as a walk on ridge underestimates the challenge of climbing up and over eight mountains in 12.2 miles, even if Gunstock, the tallest of them, measures only 2,445 feet.

But the effort involved in tromping up, down, and over eight low mountains was definitely worth the sweat and sore feet. The Belknap Range trail crosses an incredible diversity of terrain, offering a day of wonders: mountain views, mossy woods, wildflowers, critters and more. For a detailed description of the hike, see the the Belknap Range Trail description at BelknapRangeTrails.com, an excellent guide to all trails in the range. Although the Belknap Range hike is much easier to follow these days, thanks to markers placed along the trail, we frequently consulted the trail description during our hike, as we did not want to add more mileage by taking a wrong turn and backtracking.

After meeting up at the Mount Major parking lot in Gilmanton, we headed over to Gunstock Ski Area in Gilford, where we parked, and picked up the trail to the right of the ski lodge.

We left the Gunstock parking lot at 8:30 a.m. and reached our first summit, Mt. Rowe, elevation 1,680 feet, after about 45 minutes of hoofing it uphill.
After Mount Rowe, the trail meandered through the forest on a ridge towards Gunstock Mountain. When we paused to look at some bird poop on the trail, my friend Annette looked up into the canopy and spotted a sawhet owl peering down at us.
We also saw the first of dozens of the rare and endangered Lady Slipper plant. They were abundant in the forest — early June must be their favored time to blossom.
Checking out the view from the (closed) Panorama Pub at the top of Gunstock Mountain. The pub and its deck were closed due to COVID precautions during the winter of 2021. I look forward to a future sunny February afternoon sitting at a picnic table here with beer or coffee. Next stop: Belknap Mountain, 2,322 feet high, and 3.3 miles into our 12.2 mile day.
Salamanders, salamanders, everywhere! As we hiked through the woods over to Mount Belknap, we had to be careful not to step on these little critters, and saw many throughout the day. Mount Belknap has a fire tower and I forgot to take a photo because I was hungry and tired. We ate an early lunch in the tower, and then continued on towards Round Pond.
We descended from Belknap Mountain on the aptly-named Boulder Trail, quite steep, and tricky to navigate, as the rocks were damp from rain the previous night.
Peaceful and isolated Round Pond, five miles in. Lots of beaver activity here. We hiked along the shore of the pond until we reached a junction for the Mount Klem-Mount Mack Loop, and we began to climb uphill again.
Heading towards the summit of Mount Klem, we could see where we’d come from: Belknap and Gunstock. At this juncture, we were almost half-way across the range. But I was beginning to think I might have to cancel my dinner reservation.

Mt. Klem summit, about 100 yards off the trail. Next, we headed down, and then up, and down and up, to the summit of Mack, about 7 miles in. I was feeling the distance by now, with some “hot spots” on my toes. But there was no turning back now, and we hiked on to Mount Anna, 8.5 miles in. By this time it was 3 o’clock, so I called Moxy to cancel my dinner reservation. But I was still feeling optimistic about making the concert!

After more ups and downs, we arrived at the Straitback. After mostly being in the forest all day, I enjoyed the wide open feel of the granite ledges.
Major Celebration: We reached the summit of Mount Major, overlooking Lake Winnipesaukee, around 5 p.m. Another 1.5 miles to hike to the parking lot, all downhill. Would I make it to Portsmouth in time for the concert?

We arrived at the parking lot around 5:45 pm, beat up but satisfied with our long day in the Belknap Range. I rested on the 15-minute drive to Gunstock, where I picked up my car, changed my shoes, and threw on a clean t-shirt and a shift dress. My husband was waiting in Portsmouth with a beer and a rice bowl. The concert, with Erin McKeon, had been moved indoors due to the threat of thunder showers. I nestled into my cushiony seat to enjoy my first live music experience since the start of the pandemic, and I didn’t fall asleep — success!

About Dianne Fallon

Maniacal Traveler Dianne Fallon writes from a house in the Maine woods in . Her interests include travel, hiking and the outdoors, and history. Find her on Instagram @themaniacialtraveler.
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1 Response to Hiking the Belknap Range in NH’s Lakes Region

  1. Rachel Hopkins says:

    I’m impressed!!!

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